Jodhpur, you’ve been an incredible treat but the show must go on!

Just one last stop before we leave you… sitting loud and proud above Jodhpur city, Mehrangarh fort. A short tuk tuk ride, an Indian pastry and a cup of chai later, we were all set to (unfortunately) race through its grounds and epic monolithic interior walls. Crowds of tourists from all over the city sauntered through the intricate rooms of the inner palace to catch a glimpse of the amazing collections of decorative art, artillery, garments and tokens of the way of life during the time of the Maharajas. It was awe-inspiring to hear about the regular epic attacks made by hundreds of rajput (warriors) on hundreds of elephants, and the desperately sad brides who, on hearing their warrior husbands had been killed during battle, quietly in procession would join their bodies on the funeral pyres, dressed in full wedding attire, to be joined in celestial union for eternity! Mel of course loved the romanticism of all this.

Tourists were not the only guests at this particular time as Bollywood production crews were busy crafting sets and organizing the nights takes for what I’m sure will be a huge hit, Thugs of Hindostan. Be sure to check this flick out!

Checking out from the RAAS was nice and easy and gave us a moment to grab a quick cocktail while looking down on Toorji’s step well from the Step Well Cafe. Considered one of the finest step wells in India, its recent drainage and clean-up provided the perfect place for 30 or so Indian lads to dive-bomb from all directions into the gemstone green water. Mel even had a few requests to take a plunge!

We hopped into a tourist cab with a lovely man called Manoj and settled in for a long (5 hour) drive to Bikaner. The road was in good condition for most of the journey and along the way we passed those on foot, overloaded trucks and many camels, deer, goats and the sacred cows.

Indians’ respect for animals is quite humbling. Testimony to this was the couple of roadside cow hospitals we passed, containing shelter and medical care for hundreds of cows that are hurt on the road, ill or deformed. With its own cancer ward, cows are slowly nursed back to good health, and food is brought in by those passing by to feed the otherwise abandoned, suffering cows.

The sweet aroma of Manoj’s chewing tobacco slowly filled the car as we passed through small settlements with lots of places to eat and snooze – a common sight throughout this vast country. Older gents playing cards, children kicking around a ball and ladies with clearly no shortage of conversation, it all makes you appreciate the importance of friendship, which is quite often lost in the daily grind of life back home.

We’ve made it! A quick snap with Manoj and some extra rupees, and we sent him on his way. Looking exhausted from the drive we reminded him to eat and sleep before the journey home.

Narendra Bhawan! Phwoar. Within 3 minutes of entering what seemed like heaven on earth, we’d already booked an extra night! The palace was once home to the last Maharajah of Bikaner and is magical! A blend of Havana and India surrounding a grand second storey open air courtyard, we instantly felt as if we were at home.

With our bellies full of Rajasthani speciality cuisine (mutton and chicken with paratha, naan and roti) and Maharasthran sauvignon blanc, we settled in for the night, nervously anticipating our visit to Karni Mata Temple the next day.