Today started with a flying visit to Junagarh Fort, a much smaller baby brother of Mehrangarh, but another hugely impressive example of Rajasthani architecture. Hand-carved from red sandstone and fine marble, ivory and silver, the intricate floral paintings throughout the interior gave its courtyards, halls and balconies a distinctive sense of pretty, not the very masculine tones that we’d seen previously. It’s unique because its on the flat, not on a hilltop like the other ones. Maharajah Ganga Singh was the last well known Rajasthani king who lived there, until the early 1940s. He loved polo and was a big advocate of preserving the heritage of Junagarh.

I spotted a beautiful little framed note about him which simply said ‘Your brilliant star will shine most certainly for your best victory’. I thought this must have probably summed him up perfectly (although there were also many tributes to his epic hunting ability – rhinoceros, leopard, tiger and antelope – which didn’t make me so happy).

After the tour Jit turned to me and said “that’s the last one Mel”. So no more forts for the rest of the trip.

On to the temple!

Karni Mata Temple is home to what’s thought to be roughly 20,000 sacred rats, all protected and worshipped by those making the long pilgrimage to make offerings to them. Located at Deshnoke, about 30km from Bikaner (so about 40 minutes from our hotel), there are many superstitions associated with the rats, primarily that if one is killed it must be replaced with another of similar size and made of solid gold. The second is that because the temple is overrun with black rats, to spot a white one is considered supremely holy and symbolises extremely good luck and fortune for anyone who spots one.

The smell was quite over-powering, and even though we were both wearing little bootie foot coverings you could feel the crunch of rat droppings and of course were extra careful not to step on one of the little guys as they scampered round having the time of their life. What lucky rats they were! We did spot a couple that weren’t looking in the best shape, and were fascinated watching other worshippers get down on their hands and knees and try to kiss  them. And when out of the shadows the white rat made his appearance – pandemonium! – but one of the most special (and strange) moments of our trip. We celebrated our good luck with some very strong cuba libres back in the sanctuary of the hotel courtyard.

Tomorrow, Mandawa, and its beautiful artefacts and lavishly-painted haveli frescos!